Leaving Pushkar-Days 1 and 2- Happy Birthday, George!!

Passed 5 or 6 large herds of camels leaving the city. Their owners had already traded/sold/bought at the fair and were now going home. To reinforce that this is India, have to specify that we passed these herds, not just on the country roads, but also on the divided "highway" to Jaipur. Try to picture 100 camels and their herders ambling in the left hand lane of Rt 40 as trucks, cars, bicycles, and pedestrians careen past.

Well, that's a poor analogy as you can't compare the 2 roads at all. This road to Jaipur, like most roads here is under construction with many " diversions" , construction debris spilling over into the lanes , speed bumps , and on -coming traffic. I have some great videos which I'll post on You- tube of some of these conditions.

Spent all day at Jaipur airport as Air India flight to Mumbai delayed 6 hours We missed our connecting flight to Aurangabad so our schedule for our last 4 days has been rearranged a bit.

Arriving at night, we find Mumbai lit like NYC! And as we drive its streets, we think perhaps we are on the Hudson, and not the Arabian Sea.

A spontaneous visit to a cafe near our hotel evolves into a great bd celebration and redemption of the day! We eat real steak that tastes real good! We find we are the only customers and so get up to dance to George's favorite, Rod Stewart. PDA in India!!! The many waiters, greeters, owner smile, wink, take pictures. The cooks grin sheepishly through the window of the swinging door.

All then gather to sing "Happy Birthday" and present us with a chocolate cake.

We are grateful and tip generously and leave very, very happy.

The next morning we take an hour's ride around the harbor on a small passenger ferry. We are the only non- Indians. We pay an extra 10 rupees to mount the steps to the top deck. ( cost was 120 rupees--$2.40. )

Along the way, the boat stops and delivers water tubs and other goods to similar vessels moored in the harbor. In India, there are many ways to make a buck.

Although there are signs plastered on railings and walls abjuring photography by order of the Navy, I take pictures. I am careful where I stand to snap the shutter; parts of the railing are missing.

If the boat has life jackets on board, they are well-hidden. The molded plastic rows of orange chairs are so well worn, they have evolved into rockers.

But we arrive back at our starting point and are sad to leave the water. It is back to the car and our English learning young driver who left his home in Bengal to get work in this teeming city.

We see the usual sights, the India Gate and the Taj Mahal Hotel where, by happy chance, George W is now in residence. We see the slums featured in Slumdog Millionaire. Do not take pictures there.

Unremarkably, we see a cow. Remarkably, we see a cat--skinny and sickly. It is the first feline sighting in 26 days in the country.

We pass through the lively fish market where you can be hung out to dry if you are not iced first. We discover how the laundries find the space for drying hotel sheets.

And the pigeons unfit for St. Mark's Square in Venice find refuge in Mumbai where corn is scattered to feed them.

This is now day 2 of trying to get to Aurangabad. The 1/2 hour flight that was to leave Mumbai at 3 has been postponed twice-- now till 6:30.

The reason for all these delays? Staff not showing up.

Will try to post this now. If no further posts forthcoming, send help to Bombay Airport.

PushkarFair!!!!!

Double awesome 2 hour camel ride around town and fair. George preferred biking!! He attracted some fellow enthusiasts. I received many cries of delight and camera clicks from the Indians.

We think the guys in blue are Sikks. They loved posing.

I am in front of hotel--3 stories around a central open courtyard. Very British.

Camel is being groomed.

Shot of crowd is in front of Brahma temple, one of 4 most sacred ones in the country. Guide worst in the world-- someone took pity on us at lake and we wound up having this truly meaningful ceremony where we joined hands, named family members, through our troubles behind us, chanted, and floated our family, s flowers in the lake. We cupped hands and each of our wrists tied with red and yellow string--Mother India's. Colors. Even George admitted it was a moving experience.

Met several India boys looking quite smart in their Scouting uniforms -- no pics as it was by the sacred lake where none are allowed.

Off on plane to Aurangabad tomorrow.

Udaipur

City of lakes! Cleanest city so far!! Craziest guide in the country!

While flush with temple and palace (2nd largest in India) details other guides omitted, Uma also regaled us with a romantic tale of a found and lost princely heritage, an unfulfilled Western love, drug addiction, aimless wandering, a father's revengeful wrath, and a cold, arranged marriage worthy of any Harlequin novel.

We were smitten; we were duped.

Turns out Uma is rich, very rich and while an honest enough guide--as India defines the word--he enjoys the dramatic flourishes guiding offers, using his clients as willing supporting actors in his self-scripted Bollywood film.

All part of this colorful world!! No need to pay for entertainment EVER!!

Uma is pointing out some of the exquisite details in a miniature painting Udaipur is famous for. Takes many years to complete one using squirrel tail hair brushes and camel eye lash brush. Real gold details and precious stone ground for paint.
Peacock full of precious stones in Palace which is still in use. Buddy guards the front door. Notice the sharp points designed as elephant protection

The sun was designed to stand in for the real thing for the village during monsoon season.

Boat ride on lake at sunset.

George and guide stand in square where a scene of Octopussy was filmed. He was in it. 3 years old. Or so he says!!

Golden Jaisalmer

Temple pics are of Jain religion that prescribes a path of non-violence towards all living beings. Its philosophy and practice emphasize the necessity of self-effort to move the soul towards divine consciousness and liberation. Any soul that has conquered its own inner enemies and achieved the state of supreme being is called a jina ("conqueror" or "victor"). The ultimate status of these perfect souls is called siddha.

Jain doctrine teaches that Jainism has always existed and will always exist, although historians date the foundation of the organized or present form of Jainism to sometime between the 9th and the 6th century BCE.

Jainism is a small but influential religious minority with as many as 4.2 million followers in India (with its 1.2 billion!). Jains have an ancient tradition of scholarship and have the highest degree of literacy for a religious community in India and Jain libraries are the oldest in the country.

The large, solitary figure and tiny statues behind B & S are not of Buddah, but of Mahavira, an ancient sage who is believed to have established the tenets of Jainism in 6th c. BCE.

Camel riding only disappointment of trip so far. We thought we had arranged for a more " authentic " experience, but turns out, we hadn't! But our jeep ride to the small tent area through the desert, our evening and morning rides to the dunes, and the night entertainment were great anyway. Well, M & S loved the camel riding; B tolerated it; G --a thumbs down!
But as you can see, he cut a mean rug with the local dancers at night!

Sabu's village of Dagre/ day 1 jaisalmer

Passed lots of camels on their way to Pushkar for the camel festival. As we passed ( in the typical Indian fashion by honking the horn), I yelled to each one: " See you in Pushkar," as we will in a few days...

We picked Icon Travel for our India trip and are so glad we did! All has been great and Sabu, the owner, invited us to spend the night at his parent' s house on the way to Jaisalmer Once again, we were warmly greeted as the pictures attest. His sisters, sister- in- law, and mother made us lahangas. They have full skirts unlike the sari and are favored here in Rajasthan.

Cannot emphasize enough the warmth and hospitality of the people. Because of Sabu, We have been fortunate to see and experience many sides and levels of the country.

Sabu's family is vegetarian. On a wood fire, the women cooked pula, a frIed bread. We sat on a rug around a small table and with right hand only, broke off small pieces and dipped it into a small bowl of vegetables, consisting mostly of chili peppers! Did you know salt cuts the heat! Needless to say, George ate a lot of plain puli!

Sabu said lately all the labor and costs of taking the small farm's goods to market has not been worth it

Village schools are of very poor quality. The teachers ignore the students. You must go to a private school to get anywhere. Sabu will take one of his nieces to live with him in Jaipur when his house is complete to send her to school as she is bright.

The children are beautiful and endearing. We visited the village square where the children vied for camera time with Sandy and me while George and Buddy " chatted" up the older guys. Only 1 woman at the square.

Caste still a big part of Indian life. If the caste is high, you will soon be told of it. And most marriages are still arranged, although now the groom is allowed a peak at the bride before the wedding day.

The shoes sandy is looking at are at the side of the road, left there last month by pilgrims walking barefoot to a very holy Hindu shrine. Some of the pilgrims roll on the road to the shrine; some slide their bodies in a hands in prayer position.

Tomorrow after seeing the magnificent golden fort, we take a camel ride overnight into the desert where we will be just 50 km from Pakistan. We passed a whole battalion of army trucks on the road and a huge barracks. 60% of Jaisalmer ' s pop is army!

Had a great birthday-- the hotel even brought a cake to the table. This haveli is over 300 years old. We were upgraded to the rooftop suite.

George showing Indian river method of washing clothes and self!

Hope all is well.