Sabu's village of Dagre/ day 1 jaisalmer

Passed lots of camels on their way to Pushkar for the camel festival. As we passed ( in the typical Indian fashion by honking the horn), I yelled to each one: " See you in Pushkar," as we will in a few days...

We picked Icon Travel for our India trip and are so glad we did! All has been great and Sabu, the owner, invited us to spend the night at his parent' s house on the way to Jaisalmer Once again, we were warmly greeted as the pictures attest. His sisters, sister- in- law, and mother made us lahangas. They have full skirts unlike the sari and are favored here in Rajasthan.

Cannot emphasize enough the warmth and hospitality of the people. Because of Sabu, We have been fortunate to see and experience many sides and levels of the country.

Sabu's family is vegetarian. On a wood fire, the women cooked pula, a frIed bread. We sat on a rug around a small table and with right hand only, broke off small pieces and dipped it into a small bowl of vegetables, consisting mostly of chili peppers! Did you know salt cuts the heat! Needless to say, George ate a lot of plain puli!

Sabu said lately all the labor and costs of taking the small farm's goods to market has not been worth it

Village schools are of very poor quality. The teachers ignore the students. You must go to a private school to get anywhere. Sabu will take one of his nieces to live with him in Jaipur when his house is complete to send her to school as she is bright.

The children are beautiful and endearing. We visited the village square where the children vied for camera time with Sandy and me while George and Buddy " chatted" up the older guys. Only 1 woman at the square.

Caste still a big part of Indian life. If the caste is high, you will soon be told of it. And most marriages are still arranged, although now the groom is allowed a peak at the bride before the wedding day.

The shoes sandy is looking at are at the side of the road, left there last month by pilgrims walking barefoot to a very holy Hindu shrine. Some of the pilgrims roll on the road to the shrine; some slide their bodies in a hands in prayer position.

Tomorrow after seeing the magnificent golden fort, we take a camel ride overnight into the desert where we will be just 50 km from Pakistan. We passed a whole battalion of army trucks on the road and a huge barracks. 60% of Jaisalmer ' s pop is army!

Had a great birthday-- the hotel even brought a cake to the table. This haveli is over 300 years old. We were upgraded to the rooftop suite.

George showing Indian river method of washing clothes and self!

Hope all is well.

You tube link to our Varanasi driver!!

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=IN#/watch?v=1Yw1azIAXWs

Jaipur--next day

Pictures are of the Amber Fort which contained several palaces and the City Palace. 20 min. Elephant ride up ramp to fort. They are decorated for Divali. A bit bumpy, but fun!
Have seen lots of forts, each one shining in some aspect. One pic shows one wall of a series of rooms sparkling with silver and mirrors.

These 17th c onwards Hindu maharajas knew how to live--Hampton Court would have been fit for their camels only!!

Buddy makes a geat Maharaja, doesn't he! Several Indians wanted their picture with him.


Our driver, Mr. Singh, brought my camera from the car when I forgot it. Even though I had said I really didn't need it since I had the iPhone, he came anyway. The guides, waiters, shop people all go out of their way to keep you happy.

George and I are standing in front of one of the 12 astrological installations designed to track the zodiac. Scorpio The world's largest sundial--accurate within seconds--is also here. All built by Mah. Saye Vaisingth-- 17th c.

The palace is still in use by the current Mararaja-a 14year old boy.

Fort was opened to public in the 1950's, but with no security. Much was defaced and stolen, including precious
Tiles off doors and parts of the colored walls!

Indian has such a rich heritage, but their protection of it is still wanting. Notice the pigeons on the chandelier.

Resting in our haveli now. The sights, crowds, and noise can take a lot out of you! Need a few quiet hours to recoup.

We are eating just 2 meals a day-- a big breakfast and a big meal around 3. As that seems to be the way it works out. Tandoor chicken is very good-- just about the only non- spicy item we can find. Although George thinks it still has somewhat of a Koch, he does eat it.

The buttered naan is good, but long for some brown rice and bread and fresh vegetables.

Jaipur

Capital of Rajasthan. 6 million people. Lights for Divali. Front of our haveli, an historic mansion repurposed as a hotel.

Ranthbone national park

Only 35 tigers here... Past and some present poaching; made a park in the80's. Tiger hunting outlawed in the 60's. Lots of jeeps and even some jams... Definitely not the expansive Serengeti!!

Tiger paw print is closest we came

Notice the beautifully decorated bldg in the park. All hand done.

Some of the trucks. Can you spot the 2 homemade ones? George thinks they have water pump engines. They use them as local transport; have to bribe police to take them on road as they have no tags, insurance, etc. Of course bribery is the norm here-- the one infrastructure that actually works.

Wish we repurposed as Indians do. The bottom of these hand- made chairs at our resort are bicycle tires.

Mr. Singh, s family

Stopped by our driver ' s in- laws on way to national park. His family was there for Diwali. The pictures speak for themselves


First time we drove at night: same as day, except no light on the camel- drawn wooden cart, the bicycles or pedestrians. Only front lights on many of the trucks. One weak, wobbly light on the autorickshaws. No reflective tape wrapped around the necks of the black as night water buffalo which rule the streets with the cows and bulls No street lights. This is all on the " major" road to the park.

Agra Fort

Forgot to mention from last post: we are so fortunate to enjoy the lights and hospitality of Divali, the Indian festival of lights! Our driver took us out to dinner to celebrate. Fireworks, lights, decorations everywhere.

Translucent marble on Agra fort. The great Mughal emperor built it for his 3 wives-- Christian , muslim, hindu and has 3 palaces-- one for each. He also had 365 concubines and used them as live Parchesi pieces on the marble game board.

We are mounting a bring Akbar back movement. As he was extremely tolerat of all religions-- sikkh, Christian, Hindi, Jain, Islam, of course.